Gaia Farm is a 620-hectare family-owned estate located in the Karatu district of Tanzania. Gaia is one of two farms managed by Neel and Kavita Vohora, siblings, multi-generation coffee growers, and agricultural entrepreneurs in this extremely unique part of East Africa. Both farms are cultivated along the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater, the largest unbroken caldera in the world and a breathtakingly scenic landscape of escarpments and fertile open range that has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979.
Neel and Kavita are third-generation Tanzanians of Indian heritage, and their family has been in the Tanzanian coffee business since the end of the second World War. The family export business based in Arusha has more than 60 years experience in the country.
Since 1971, the Vohoras have owned about 1000 acres of farmland on the southern exterior slopes of the Ngorongoro caldera near the town of Karatu in Tanzania’s lush rift valley. The farms possess Rainforest Alliance certificate, and the family and their 50+ full-time employees on the farm have done a remarkable job of upkeep and preservation of natural beauty while also running a thriving coffee business. They are diversifying into macadamia and honey, provide temporary housing for harvest labor, and even supply land on the farm for local smallholders to grow beans - a mutually beneficial crop as the legumes fix nitrogen in the soil, a critical step in a healthy cycle of crops.
Neel’s sister Kavita runs the dry mill, roastery, and export business from Arusha, a two-hour drive away from the farms. Their father, Ajai, lives in nearby Nairobi, Kenya, and is still very much involved in the business of exporting coffee as well, and has been instrumental in maintaining the relationship. Kavita is a licenced Q-grader, a meticulous cupper and quality agent, and a mother. Neel is also a knowledgeable farmer with a persistent drive to experiment, has staffed the estate with experienced management. They both keep an army of pets around the offices, including terriers and ducks.
Of the 620 hectares that comprise Gaia Farm, 260 are planted with coffee. These planted hectares are sub-divided into 50 blocs by microclimate or coffee variety, allowing the Vohoras and their harvest staff of 800 to manage each specific need of the farm in an orderly way. Neel and Kavita have been steady suppliers for Royal for a few years, and beyond the ever-in-demand peaberries that have become synonymous with Tanzania specialty, the brother and sister have put their size and expertise to use introducing a dizzying variation of processing styles into the world. Some of which we are also lucky to cup and carry each year.
Overview
This is a moderate intervention fermented and washed Gesha cultivar coffee from Karatu, Tanzania, produced by siblings Neel and Kavita Vohora on their Gaia farm. The flavor profile is delicate and botanical, layering white florals, lemongrass, pear, and preserved lemon over a tea-like sweetness. Our roasters found this washed Tanzania Gesha rewards generous airflow to stretch and control the Maillard phase to protect the delicate florals into a rose-forward, tea-like cup. When brewed, our team found that higher doses bring out sweetness and ripe stone fruit notes, while lower doses highlight citrus, floral, and spice characteristics.Taste Analysis by Isabella Vitaliano
Star producers from Tanzania Neel and Kavita are back again with a slew of lots that vary in both processing and cultivar type. On the nose, this soft and subtle coffee is sweet with notes of tea and coriander. Notes of crème fraîche, lemongrass, honeysuckle and gardenia are all in the cup. While Gesha can often mean a coffee that is flashy in its florals, this coffee is not that but does not make it any less good. Other notes we got were botanical, peony, white tea, pear, and preserved lemons. It’s an amalgamation of every flower you could find blooming in a garden during the springtime. A gentle experience makes for the perfect morning beverage or afternoon pick-me-up. I imagine this coffee as an iced pour over would be especially good. For those looking to elevate the quality of your menu and showcase a delicious Gesha, this is a great coffee to pick up.Green Analysis by Isabella Vitaliano
Coffee from the Vohora family always comes in pristine condition, and this one is no exception. The density of this coffee falls in the average range, with moisture content sitting a bit lower than average. A gentle coffee on the whole, be sure to keep a watchful eye on it in the roaster. The Maillard phase is especially important for curating those florals. Doris is especially attentive to curating those floral notes; be sure to read her notes in the production roasting section.Aillio Bullet R1 IBTS Analysis by Chris Kornman
We use the RoasTime app and roast.world site to document our roasts on the Bullet. You can find our roast documentation below by searching on roast.world, or by clicking on the link below. Take a look at our roast profiles below, as they are constantly changing! I made a guest appearance this week on the Bullet, roasting this understated washed Gesha. I was really happy with how the roast turned out, probably one of my favorites of the early trials we tasted. Admittedly, one of the keys to unlocking this coffee’s potential is patience – we're finding that a few days after roasting the cup opens up a lot, so don’t be discouraged if you taste the coffee very soon after roasting... just give it a little extra time to rest. Using my standard F2, D4 settings, I preheated to 482F and used P8 for my initial power setting, holding these steady until color change, which occurred at a relatively high temperature of 343F. Wanting to really stretch out the Maillard stage, I dropped to P6 and ramped up the fan to F5. Within about 60 seconds, I made a second adjustment, to P5 and F7, and held these for the remainder of the roast. First crack occurred after 3:20 of color change, at 7:25 and 381F. The power and fan settings in place were enough to gently push the coffee through development and I ended the roast with 1:26 in post crack time at 389.6F. The coffee was floral and expressive on the cupping table, with rose-like fragrance, clean, floral flavors, and a tea-like body. To me, it felt recognizably Gesha-like in character, and a nicely resolved roast with plenty of delicate nuance to enjoy. I'll be taking this roast home with me to enjoy pour-overs for the weekend. You can follow along with my roast here at roast.world: https://roast.world/ckornman.wnD2/roasts/8bj_t06h1irVGkJ4blDvMIkawa Pro V3 Analysis by Isabella Vitaliano
Our current Ikawa practice compares two sample roast profiles, originally designed for different densities of green coffee. The two roasts differ slightly in total length, charge temperature, and time spent between color change in first crack. You can learn more about the profiles here. On the high-density roast of this coffee, I found this coffee has some high botanicals in the cup, think lilac and lavender, while also noticing some acidity. While both of these flavor notes were great, there was a touch of emptiness in the cup as well. In the light-density roast, this coffee had a fullness and roundness to the cup, and the overall flavors felt more subtle. To explore the florality of this coffee, I recommend the high-density profile, but the profile that would suit this coffee the best is something in between both of these roasts. Check out our Doris and Chris’ roasts for more details! You can roast your own by linking to our profiles in the Ikawa Pro app here:- Roast 1: Low Density Sample Roast
- Roast 2: High Density Sample Roast
Brew Analysis by Joshua Wismans
Gesha coffees, now grown the world over, present a fascinating challenge and learning opportunity for baristas. The flavor profile is eponymous yet distinct, depending on the microclimates in which they’re grown. Yet florality, soft stone fruit, and citrus remain the north star by which all Gesha’s are measured. Neel and Kavita have grown a beautiful washed Gesha, presenting a unique vision for the varietal while still carrying those classic notes. We found that a more delicate brew highlights the stone fruit and floral character, while also presenting a beautiful spice character that makes this Gesha unique. Our initial brews started with an assumption that this coffee would be soluble. We were wrong. Our initial brews used a coarse grind on a conical brewer with a moderate dose. The TDS was low and the cup underwhelming. Understanding that this coffee needed to be pushed for proper extraction, we switched to a much finer grind and found the flavors that had us fall in love with this coffee to begin with. With a TDS of 1.37 on a conical brewer, mandarin and plum came shining through, with a beautiful note of sweet black sesame rounding out the cup. Keeping a similarly fine grind but lowering the dose brought out even more florality, along with a beautiful spice character. This was our favorite brew and the one we’d recommend. The TDS was much lower, but the delicate profile allowed the subtlety of this beautiful varietal to really shine. Overall, we recommend a very fine grind with a conical brewer. High doses will bring out sweetness and ripe stone fruit. Low doses with highlight citrus, floral, and spice notes.