Espresso Analysis by Alisha Rajan Herbal coferments are a rare event for me, as this is the first I’ve tried. The age old and almost mystical element of rue merges with the fashionable processing method of anaerobic cofermentation to yield a highly intriguing and full-of-life coffee. Rue is often associated with medicinal bitterness and earthiness, and its use in this natural coffee pays tribute to its customary use in Ethiopian coffee traditions. As an espresso, it is notable in this case that bitterness is a desirable flavor and is well-balanced with toasty caramel sweetness and bright grapefruit citrus throughout. I began the espresso analysis with a 17.5 gram dose and a 1:2 ratio for dose to yield and an extraction time of 24 seconds. This shot was intense with burnt caramel smokiness, cherry cola sweetness, and jasmine florals. I proceeded to increase the dose for the following extractions, keeping in mind that the high solubility of Ethiopian coffees would intensify the already powerful flavors. My favorite shot came in at a 19.3 gram dose, 43.4g yield, and an extraction time of 23 seconds. The high dose and short extraction time was an effective strategy for maintaining a balance between sweet fruity notes and the herbal bitterness. This shot boasted sweet and spicy notes of star anise, rooibos tea, black cherry, and grapefruit citrus. My second favorite shot came in at a 19.5 gram dose, 41.0 gram yield, and a 28 second extraction time. This one was fruitier than the rest, showcasing a lovely mango/guava sweetness, toasty caramel, and an abundance of earthy oregano mingling with citrus. Accounting for the high solubility of this coffee, I would recommend a high dose and a coarser grind for the optimal balance of sweetness and bitterness. I noticed that longer extractions brought out some more fruit forward notes, and faster extractions were more herbal and savory. All in all, this coffee was a wonderfully complex and nuanced marriage of an ancient ingredient and contemporary processing to tell a story of terroir rich in tradition. I hope you enjoy the journey as much as I did.
