Coffee usage in Ethiopia’s ancient history would have included eating the raw berries, rolling them with lard to preserve and travel with them, or making a weak, sour wine with the fruits. The unroasted coffee seeds were often boiled to create a strong “tea.” This green coffee extraction made its way from Harar to Yemen in the 15th century, where roasting was introduced shortly thereafter. Roasting is now commonplace throughout Ethiopia, including as a part of the country’s iconic coffee ceremony.
While coffee did export from Ethiopia historically, passing through Harar, much of this internationally traded coffee, even into the first decades of the twentieth century, would transship through Yemen re-exported as “Mocha.”
Ethiopia began to slowly grow in commercial cultivation and by the 19th century there were two common grades of coffee, Harari and Abyssinia, with increased access to international markets made possible by the opening of railroad lines and the port at Djibouti. Public auctions had begun in Ethiopia by the turn of the 20th century, run by the government in the capital city of Addis Ababa and in the eastern city of Dire Dawa, but corruption and excessive taxation encouraged a fraudulent market for Ethiopian coffees, often exported under the name of a neighboring country.
Under Emperor Haile Selassie I, during the mid 20th century, the country experienced investment and subsequently, growth in the infrastructure and quality of coffee. A new grading system was implemented and in 1957 the National Board of Coffee was formed.
Under Selassie’s monarchy, the shift of land rights toward the wealthy destabilized the already tenuous livelihoods of the nation’s poorest denizens. The growing inequality reached critical mass in 1973, when the Wollo famine, largely ignored and covered up by the government and Haile Selassie (who that year spent $35 million on his 80th birthday party), claimed 300,000 lives.
The Derg, a council of 120 elected military officials, toppled the crown and ruled for the next 15 years, until the next major famine precipitated the end of Ethiopia’s communist Civil War period. The Derg was critical in reshaping the agricultural landscape by redistributing much of the large estate land to smallholders, to the extent that today 90 percent of the nation’s coffee is grown on privately owned plots of 2 hectares or less. Much land in Ethiopia is still viewed as communal—the government “owns” the land while citizens “lease” it for use.
The Coffee Liquoring Unit (CLU) was formally established in 1982. The CLU, along with the Ethiopian Coffee & Tea Authority (ECTA est. 1995), largely controlled the grade and trade of coffee in the country until the formation of the ECX in 2007. Cooperative unions began to form in the late 1990s starting with Oromia followed by Sidama, Yirgacheffe and Kaffa.
The ECX, from 2008 to 2017, established regional labs where coffees were graded quickly in the field so that farmers could be paid before the coffees entered the newly established national auction. However, The ECX infamously removed the ability for exporters and importers to cup coffees prior to bidding, and eliminated traceability to individual microregions, estates, and washing stations. After years of extralegal transparency tactics and general specialty industry outcry, a 2017 proclamation legalized direct trade in the country, improved transparency requirements, reestablished the ECTA’s authority in the coffee sector, and initiated a review of the grading system.