Crown Jewel Ethiopia Natural Worka Chelchele
40115-1 – SPOT RCWHSE
Check out our Guide to Ethiopian Coffee Grades
40115-1 – SPOT RCWHSE
Check out our Guide to Ethiopian Coffee Grades
This is a minimal intervention natural coffee from Banko Chelchele, Ethiopia, produced by smallholder farmers organized around Tracon Trading.
The flavor profile is nostalgic, a pristine example of an iconic region and processing method, encapsulated in comforting fruit flavors and sparkling floral notes. We tasted raspberry, orange, blueberry, cherry, and hibiscus.
Our roasters found the coffee easy to roast but cautioned a steady hand at first crack, since it retains a lot of momentum and can take on color quickly.
When brewed our baristas preferred a cone brewer with a higher dose and a little bit of a coarser grind. Espresso shots, while slightly challenging to dial, were well worth the effort.
Banko Chelchele is an iconic region in Ethiopia known for its sparkly florals and syrupy sweet body. This natural lot is the perfect iteration of coffee from the region—it’s an effervescent and delectable treat.
We found this nostalgic coffee to bring us comfort through sweet pie flavors, tart cranberry and cherry Garcia ice cream. Taking the front seat, you’ll also find maple syrup, orange juice, and soft jasmine.
Behind those notes there are flavors like praline, cream soda and dark chocolate.
Between the amalgamation of flavors, you’ll become immersed in fruit tones and transported to memories of summer heat and fruit pies; and if you don’t have any memories, consider yourself transported to your future self—it’s a must-have experience.
The Banko Chelchele washing station is owned and operated by Tracon Coffee, an independent exporter who manages 6 stations total in Gedeo. A few hundred individual smallholders contribute to Banko Chelchele, each averaging 1.6 hectares of coffee which typically shares the land with enset—a fruit-less relative of the banana tree whose pulp is scraped and packed into cakes, fermented underground, and then toasted as kocho, a staple starch in the area.
Naturals are processed simply and with great attention to detail at Tracon’s Banko Chelchele site: fresh-picked cherry is delivered each day by contributing farmers and hand-sorted upon arrival for uniformity and ripeness. Once sorting is complete, cherry is weighed and logged, and moved directly to raised beds to dry, a process that typically takes 3 weeks. During the drying period the coffee is constantly rotated during the day, and covered at night to prevent the area’s humidity from settling on the cherry’s skin. Fully dried cherry pods are then stored for multiple weeks to stabilize moisture content and water activity, then hulled locally and transported to Addis Ababa for final milling and export.
Banko Chelchele is part of the greater Gedeb district, which is known for its gifted processing climate and exquisite naturals. This lot was created by Tracon Trading, an independent exporter with select processing sites throughout Gedeb. This is a light and clean natural process with a syrupy body, layers of stone fruit, and aromatic florals.
Gedeb and Its Coffee
The district of Gedeb takes up the south-eastern corner of Ethiopia’s Gedeo Zone—a narrow section of plateau dense with savvy farmers whose coffee is known as “Yirgacheffe”, after the zone’s most famous district. Gedeb, however, is a terroir, history, and community all its own that merits unique designation in our eyes. Coffees from this community, much closer to Guji Zone than the rest of Yirgacheffe, are often the most explosive cup profiles we see from anywhere in Ethiopia. Naturals tend to have perfume-like volatiles, and fully washed lots are often sparklingly clean and fruit candy-like in structure.
Gedeb is a remote but impressively industrious area for coffee production. Half of its territory is planted with coffee. Until recently coffee exports were allowed only limited channels and the vast majority of coffee grown in this area was sold by the Yirgacheffe Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union (YCFCU), consolidated under the wide-reaching Worka Cooperative, or sold anonymously through the Ethiopia Commodity Exchange (ECX). Today, however, in addition to the Worka Cooperative splitting into multiple smaller coops, there are increasing numbers of single farm owners and independent companies who are processing and exporting direct. Tracon Trading, the producer of this honey lot, is one of them. It is an exciting time to be buying in Gedeb, where we expect to see new layers of coffee continuously unfold as its local industry accelerates.
The city of Gedeb itself is a is a bustling outpost that links commerce between the Guji and Gedeo Zones, with an expansive network of processing stations who buy cherry from across zone borders. These processors (and we would agree) would argue their coffee profiles are not exactly Yirgacheffe, but something of their own. The communities surrounding Gedeb reach some of the highest growing elevations for coffee in the world and are a truly enchanting part of the long drive into Guji. Banko Chelchele is one of the communities East of Gedeb and includes cooperative members that are cooperative-affiliated, as well independent washing stations of various types, many of which, like this one, are simply named “Banko Chelchele” after the community itself.
Banko Chelchele Station and Processing
The Banko Chelchele washing station is owned and operated by Tracon Coffee, an independent exporter who manages 6 stations total in Gedeo. A few hundred individual smallholders contribute to Banko Chelchele, each averaging 1.6 hectares of coffee which typically shares the land with enset—a fruit-less relative of the banana tree whose pulp is scraped and packed into cakes, fermented underground, and then toasted as kocho, a staple starch in the area.
Naturals are processed simply and with great attention to detail at Tracon’s Banko Chelchele site: fresh-picked cherry is delivered each day by contributing farmers and hand-sorted upon arrival for uniformity and ripeness. Once sorting is complete, cherry is weighed and logged, and moved directly to raised beds to dry, a process that typically takes 3 weeks. During the drying period the coffee is constantly rotated during the day, and covered at night to prevent the area’s humidity from settling on the cherry’s skin. Fully dried cherry pods are then stored for multiple weeks to stabilize moisture content and water activity, then hulled locally and transported to Addis Ababa for final milling and export.
The density in this coffee is in the average range with mid-range moisture and water activity readings. These are really small (and cute!) beans with most of the screen size reading sitting in the 15-16 range.
Heirloom cultivars represent some of the original coffee specimens. Historically, the issue with these cultivars when it comes to coffee production is stabilizing the coffee year after year and making sure there are no genetic variations over time. Stabilizing plant genetics can be difficult for coffee cultivators anywhere in the world. Thanks to the smallholder farmers around Banko Chelchele, we have these delicious coffees available for you all!
Screen Size | Percent | | Density |
>20 | 2.74% | | (free settled) 677 |
19 | 4.28% | | (Sinar) 695 |
18 | 5.99% | | |
17 | 12.58% | | Total Moisture Content |
16 | 31.12% | | (Sinar) 11 |
15 | 27.91% | | |
14 | 11.01% | | Water Activity |
≤13 |
Generally, I’m not in the habit of trying to push natural process coffees too hot or fast during roasting, especially not after first crack. For this lovely, floral natural from Chelchele I desperately wanted a roast that was on the lighter side, tea-like in body but aromatic and fruity in the cup.
To accomplish this, I started with a 430F charge, a minimal burner setting and a closed airflow (to keep what little residual heat there was retained in the drum). I didn’t increase the gas until after two minutes of roasting, well after the turning point. This created a bit more heat energy, and in attempt to prevent an overly quick Maillard reaction I dropped the gas back to its original position and opened the airflow fully at color change, just after five minutes. The coffee then coasted until first crack, when I cut the burners off briefly to get the rate of rise down from 15 to under 10F ROR/minute and finished at a total roast time of just under 10 minutes. The ground Colortrack reading of 54 was in the pocket for a light, pour-over style roast of this coffee, preserving a little lemony acidity, some delicate pear and raspberry flavors and a sweet almondy aroma on the cupping table but missing a bit of the floral character.
Fortunately, the cupping table isn’t the final destination for this coffee, and a pour-over handed to me a few days after roasting showcased the botanical aromatic profile I’d hoped to achieve with this coffee. It is a lovely, lovely natural with a lot to offer, and I personally think it shines when brewed in small, filtered drip batches and roasted with citrus and flowers in mind. Don’t let it run away from you at first crack, keep a steady hand, and feel free to keep it on the lighter side of the roast color range. You’ll be rewarded with a cup impossible to put down.
We use the RoasTime app and roast.world site to document our roasts on the Bullet. You can find our roast documentation below by searching on roast.world, or by clicking on the link below.
Take a look at our roast profiles below, as they are constantly changing!
This selection has become a perennial favorite of mine in our Ethiopia lineup. When I hear Chelchele, I know I’m in for a good time. This coffee is always easy to roast and easier to drink.
I started off with 473F charge temperature on my 500g roast, opting for higher heat application and a more aggressive roast than my compatriots. The difference was steady airflow application from the beginning of my roast, which initially started with P8 power and F2 fan, then moved quickly to F3 just before turning point. At peak rate of change, I was already ramping down significantly by using P7 power and F4 fan, well before the coffee changed its color to a solid yellow. Around 370F / 6:30 I did encounter some peakiness in rate of change, but quelled it with P6 power and F5 fan, all of this before first crack. This would have been devastating in another coffee, and liable to cause a crash. The Chelchele, however, maintained its trajectory even as I increased fan to F6 at first crack -- and I still achieved 10-12F/min through post-crack development. I finished my roast at 397F / 8:55, happy as a clam mostly since I get to taste this coffee again.
Like Chris notes in his roast above, I didn’t find too many florals. But what I did get was clear and bright fruit notes like hibiscus agua fresca, dried strawberry, and cherry cordial. The acidity in this coffee is just phenomenal, and you’re liable to get sparkling bright notes even at darker roast levels. If I had to choose a verb for this coffee, it might be ‘dazzle.’
Simultaneously, this roast yielded a comforting cup perhaps not least because it’s a returning favorite. There’s a reason we keep coming back to this coffee!
You can follow along with my roast here at roast.world: https://roast.world/egilman/roasts/wqRrGa55VHAU_294CM9wW
The first brew of this coffee I did was on the V60 cone brewer, at a moderate grind and a dose of 19 grams of coffee. I did an initial pulse of 50 grams of water and let it bloom for 40 seconds. I then did the last two pulses of water up to the final 300 grams. I really loved this brew! It had a soft chocolaty mouth feel with notes of Nutella, raspberries, orange and a very nice florality.
For the next brew I coarsened the grind to an 11 but kept all the previous variables the same. With this slight change in grind, it yielded a very different cup. It brought out a bitterness of raw almonds or unripe strawberries that I didn't like. I took the grind back down to 10 and tried the next brew on a Kalita Wave. I liked this brew much better than the last one, but not as much as the first brew. It was a lot sweeter than the last brew, and the bitterness was gone. It had a bit more acidity and brightness than the first brew, which was nice, but I think I like the balance of the first brew the best.
I think this coffee works best on a cone brewer with a higher dose and a little bit of a coarser grind. It really brings out the sweetness and balances the acidity and gives it a nice smooth body. A delicious natural coffee that can be taken in any direction and still get a tasty cup!
Method | Grind (EKS43) | Dose (g) | H2O (g) | Ratio | Bloom (g) | Bloom (s) | Total Brew Time | TDS | Ext % |
V60 | 10 | 19 | 300g | 15.79 | 50g | 40s | 3:50 | 1.33 | 18.40% |
V60 | 10 | 18.5 | 300g |
Recipe 1:18.5g dose, 37g yield, 26 seconds
Recipe 2: 17.5g dose, 36g yield, 25 seconds
This natural processed coffee hailing from the Gedeb district brings all the coveted features of a Yirgacheffe with a certain something else. If you were to taste it, you could see the standards of the region expressed dutifully in the form of juicy fruit flavour, and intriguing depth. What this coffee does that sets it apart in my estimation is the flicker of florals that dance throughout.
My first recipe coming in with an 18.5 gram dose, yielding 37 grams and clocking in at 26 seconds, this shot was cut above the rest in its balance and poise, striking notes like honey butter, sarsaparilla, and peach crumble. I was impressed by the expressive nature of this dial and found myself struggling to top it in my latter shots, however...
My second recipe, at 17.5 gram dose, yield of 36, and finishing at 25 seconds, this shot was definitely in the running for my very favorite. In this shot, a more pronounced florality and a certain dark chocolate truffle I had yet to see in this coffee came through. The florals here recalled the likes of magnolia, lemon balm, and chicory with the taste of mulberry at the front palate that made it all worth doing.
I would highly recommend this coffee for any bar or home roaster. While not the simplest coffee to dial, when arriving at that fated shot, you realize the journey was all worth it.