CROWN JEWEL ETHIOPIA ORGANIC ODO SHAKISO KAYON MOUNTAIN NATURAL

Taste

Taste Analysis by Isabella Vitaliano 

Kayon Mountain farm was founded by Ismel Hassen in 2012; Kayon aptly translates to the world “goal” and represents the high caliber of coffee coming from the farm. Spanning 500 hectares, single estate lots like this are rare to find in the region. The final cup reflects a highly controlled and consistent fermentation process, along with excellent quality control at every step. 

In the realm of berries and fruits galore; strawberry, cherry, cranberry and plum make up the bulk of this coffee. It’s fruity without being overwhelming to the average coffee drinker. It is highly structured and full of nuanced notes of basil, sugar cane and apricot.  

Florals are common for the region, and there are subtle layers of lavender and rose woven into the mix. The brews the team cooked up have a light and buttery quality, with lots of florals and hazelnut. While it won’t be the loudest coffee on the table, it could be ideal for those who are skittish around natural processed coffees.   

This coffee is headed to the espresso bar here at the Crown. During the Espresso Analysis, Alisha found blackberry, buttery caramel and lots of orange blossom. I can’t wait till it’s in service, without a doubt it will be my go-to. Put it on espresso or drip, the flexibility of this coffee is endless without shocking those are that may not be used to a fruity profile.  

Source

Source Analysis by Charlie Habegger 

There are few entrances to Guji–a distant and heavily forested swath of land stretching southeast through the lower corner of the massive Oromia region–and none of these routes are short, or for the queasy, in any way. Guji is heavy with primary forest thanks to the Guji tribe, a part of Ethiopia’s vast and diverse Oromo nation, who have for generations organized and legislated to reduce mining and logging outfits in their area, in a struggle to conserve the land’s sacred canopy. 

Compared to other coffee-heavy regions, large parts of Guji feel like prehistoric backwoods. Coffee farms in many parts of Guji begin at 2000 meters in elevation and tend to climb from there. The highland farming communities in this part of the country can be at turns Edenic in their natural purity, and startlingly remote. 

Near the town of Taro, in the Odo Shakiso district, is Kayon Mountain, founded by Ismael Hassen, a native of Kercha district who was born and raised surrounded by Guji’s coffee culture. Kayon Mountain is a massive coffee estate with 500 planted hectares (well over 1000 acres) of select Ethiopian arabica cultivars. The coffee genetics were originally isolated and bred by the Jimma Agricultural Research Center, whose coffee agenda includes studying and distributing select indigenous cultivars of Ethiopian coffee to help domestic farms renew and remain disease-resistant as they evolve. 74110 and 74112 are some of the Center’s oldest, and are both descendants of heirloom varieties of coffee isolated from the Illubabor Zone, an historic coffee region in the West of Ethiopia—also a part of the Oromia Region. 

Kayon Mountain is a standout, in many ways, among the broader landscape of Ethiopian coffee. To begin with, estates this large are rare in a country defined by its smallholder systems: there are over four million coffee farmers in Ethiopia and the average cultivation is a few hundred trees each. Next, Kayon Mountain exports its own coffee—a rare standing for farms of any size in Ethiopia—and as a result can bypass the Ethiopian Commodity Exchange auction entirely. Third, the estate was founded in 2012, when the Guji Zone government began carefully approving land grants to groups with ambitious organic farming plans that included the preservation of primary forest among their areas. So not only is the estate extremely young by Ethiopian standards, there is an environmental mandate built into their grant. 

The Kayon Mountain team has increased production over the past seven harvests and is currently applying for an additional land grand to further expand their operation. In addition to their own planted land, the farm buys and processes cherry from 12 other local, larger farms which are also organic and Rainforest Alliance certified. 

Throughout the harvest the estate is picking from 9am-5pm. Naturals are produced simply and carefully, by sorting for imperfections and slowly drying on raised beds in the sun. Drying cherry is constantly rotated and sorted by hand at the tables by a large staff. After dry-hulling the finished coffee, which Kayon Mountain also oversees, a final hand-sorting occurs prior to bagging. Naturals produced here tend to be delicately floral and sweet with dried rose, raspberry, strawberry, and milk chocolate. 

Ethiopia’s Guji zone in many ways feels like the next generation of Ethiopian coffee. We see the marketplace itself evolving constantly in this country–the very exciting new wave of direct exports for one, the rise of private washing stations and boutique domestic buyers for another, and the foundation of modernized, large estates with quality and social justice equally at the forefront, setting management examples for producers worldwide. Guji itself however, as a place, a people, and a coffee, is like a newly emerged origin altogether. The forest-heavy zone with a conservationist spirit and uniquely candy-like coffees is getting its break now, and the world is better for it. 

Green

Green Analysis by Isabella Vitaliano 

This is a younger farm for the region, a region that is up and coming in a way. Established in 2012, Kayon Mountain has quickly set the stage for delivering excellent coffee along with environmental and community support. Well known amongst the roasting community, this group brings us yet again another coffee with great specs. 

Above average density and a smaller screen size reflect exactly what is expected from Ethiopian coffee. Moisture content and water activity sit a bit under the average ranges. See what pushing the heat will do but take care of the coffee as it is slightly drier and may develop faster.  

Indigenous heirloom cultivars include those that are native to the country and can still be found wild in some regions. There are many guesses about where Ethiopian Arabica landraces came from, likely on the Boma plateau, but this is not 100% confirmed. Heirloom cultivars from Ethiopia are thought to be floral, citrusy, and clean — the cream of the crop. There are upwards of 10,000 heirloom cultivars in Ethiopia today.  

Both cultivars 74110 and 74112 were developed to be more resistant to diseases and increase yield potential in the Jimma Agricultural Research Center. These projects were in a direct response to the coffee rust outbreak in the 60’s.  

Loring S15

Loring S15 Falcon Analysis by Doris Garrido 

Machine: Loring S15 Falcon 

Batch Size: 18 lbs. 

It is highly enjoyable to work with an Ethiopia coffee that possesses strong aromatic qualities. From the green beans, during roasting and on the cupping process, one can discern various layers of sweet strawberry aromas. 

For this roast, I utilized the Loring roaster with a batch size of 18 pounds. One aspect I appreciate about using the Loring during roasting Ethiopian coffee is the ability to perform a straightforward roast, as it is highly responsive, and the usage of heated air makes a great finish on the Ethiopian taste. Despite the advanced technology of this machine, I prefer to operate it manually to develop profiles and this is what I did for this coffee. 

Given the sweetness I observed in this coffee, I aimed for a shorter roast while reducing the drying phase to extend the yellowing. This approach allows sufficient time to caramelize the sweet strawberry potential and achieve the desired floral notes. 

To accomplish this, I initiated the batch at a rapid pace with a temperature of approximately 460F, applying full power as soon as the machine permitted. The drying phase was efficiently shortened to about 2 minutes and 51 seconds, resulting in a brief drying period. Yellowing commenced at 307F, with the rate of change gradually decelerating, facilitating caramelization. I waited until the temperature reached 363F to reduce the power by 10% till it reached 70%, and then further reduced it by another 10% just before the first crack. After observing an increase in the rate of change, I made another reduction. It is important to note that a natural process coffee requires careful control during this part of the roast to preserve the floral characteristics, as the heat can escalate rapidly. Total time of 7 minutes and 45 minutes, with an end temperature of 414F.

The final result is a harmonious blend of berries, cherry pie, dried berries, boysenberries, and strawberry with lavender floral notes and a hint of tanginess. This roast profile will be used consistently to roast this coffee, as it will be one of our espresso options here at The Crown. 

Aillio Bullet R1

Aillio Bullet R1 IBTS Analysis by Evan Gilman  

Unless otherwise noted, we use both the roast.world site and Artisan software to document our roasts on the Bullet. You can find our roast documentation below, by searching on roast.world, or by clicking on the Artisan links below. 

Lately, I’ve been experimenting with high charge temperatures to mixed success. I’m happy to say that my roast with this coffee was a success, so I’d like to share it with you. This was one of my fastest roasts in recent memory, but it progressed just as expected.  

I started with 491F charge temperature, and plenty of heat at P8. My airflow wasn’t as high to begin with, only F2, and this helped to push the coffee along even quicker, with F3 engaged at turning point. This coffee put up more resistance to heat application than the Takele Mammo also released this week, and my peak rate of change was 42F/min. Once reaching this peak, I reduced heat application to P7, then to P6 before first crack, and P5 at crack itself. Likewise with airflow, I continued to increase gradually from F4, to F5, then finally F6 as crack ensued. The result was a gradual decrease in rate of change, and a nice even development even for such a fast roast.  

In the cup, this coffee was simply a pleasure. Somehow the predominant note for me was cantaloupe, and if you know me you know I’m a melon fan. Of course there were berries and chocolate and flowers, of COURSE. But these were mellow and very approachable, and they weren’t burying (berrying?) every other aspect of the flavor. I could imagine this coffee would be a bit jammier if I had spent more time in development, but this profile would be excellent for a single origin drip. If you look below, you’ll see that this coffee performs exceptionally well as an espresso, too. Take a cup, you’re going to have a fine time! 

You can follow along with my roast here at roast.world: https://roast.world/egilman/roasts/3fpgyakQuG2FIN9LSNKS9 

Ikawa

Ikawa Pro V3 Analysis by Isabella Vitaliano 

Our current Ikawa practice compares two sample roast profiles, originally designed for different densities of green coffee. The two roasts differ slightly in total length, charge temperature, and time spent between color change in first crack. You can learn more about the profiles here. 

This coffee is little bit more subdued for a natural Ethiopian. We found nice cherry, strawberry, black sesame and basil in the cup. A solid structure to the coffee that is accented with fruit note and a sprinkle of citrus.  

The low density roast was sweet with notes like lime, croissant, green apple, guava and butter. Pastry-like flavors accompanies by some soft herbal notes to round it out. The high-density roast was chocolatey and full of black tea and sweet herbal notes.  

Doris and I preferred the low density roast on this coffee as it has more intricacy and depth to the cup.   

You can roast your own by linking to our profiles in the Ikawa Pro app here: 

• Roast 1: Low Density Sample Roast 
• Roast 2: High Density Sample Roast  

Brew

Brew Analysis by Taylor Brandon 

Let’s cut to the chase, this coffee is delicious! Amid supply chain delays, Ethiopian coffees have been trickling back onto our menu slowly but surely. However, the waiting was not in vain as this natural process coffee from the Guji region is equal parts citrus fruit and buttery pastry. 4 brews were completed of this coffee using the Kalita Wave and V60 pour over devices. At lower doses this coffee gives off more of a punchy fruit flare and higher doses are reminiscent of decadent fudge desserts. This coffee remained consistent with variable changes, and I enjoyed all the brews.  

Brew 1  

• Variables: Kalita Wave, 9 grind, 17.6 grams of coffee.  
• Yield: 1.3 TDS, 18.76% extraction percentage 
• Notes: Cranberry, hibiscus, butter, dark chocolate and black pepper  

Brew 2 

• Variables: Kalita Wave, 9.5 grind, 19 grams of coffee.  
• Yield 1.35 TDS, 18.25% extraction percentage  
• Notes: Peaches and cream, hazelnut, rose, toffee, and marshmallow 

Brew 3 (Barista Favorite)  

• Variables: V60, 9 grind, 18 grams of coffee 
• Yield: 1.31 TDS, 19.06% extraction percentage 
• Notes: Brown butter, spiced pear, cinnamon, honey, cinnamon  

Brew 4  

• Variables: V60, 9.5 grind, 20 grams of coffee 
• Yield: 1.35 TDS, 17.38% extraction percentage 
• Notes: Dates, fig, fudge, lavender, peach rings  

Espresso

Espresso Analysis by Alisha Rajan

This exquisite selection from Kayon Mountain in the highlands of Guji was nothing short of spectacular. The minimal intervention and straightforward production methods of endemic landrace cultivars 74110 and 74112 bely the opulence of the coffee itself. I had the good fortune of tasting a sample from the earlier brew analysis and was delighted with the sweetness and creaminess of the brew. I knew this would bode very well for the espresso analysis, where I could further play with the various iterations of fruit that rested upon a base of custard and salted caramel.  

I began the espresso analysis with a standard dose of 18.0g, extracted in 29 seconds with a 30.3g yield. Accompanying the burnt caramel sweetness was a decidedly tart blackberry note on the forefront, followed by mellow stonefruit finish. A promising start to say the least. Next up was a dose of 18.5 g for a 33.9g yield in 32 seconds. I was enamored with the perfume-like quality of this extraction, so floral that it reminded me of a Gesha. Boasting notes of orange blossom, citrus-y pound cake, and a clean minty finish, this was pure decadence in a cup.  

The second recipe of note came in at a 18.7g dose, 31.0g yield, extracted in 32 seconds. This one was very similar to the last in terms of its floral and buttery qualities, and yet some more of that blackberry jam character filtered through from the initial recipe. A clean yet herbaceous finish rounded this one out for an impeccable shot.  

Overall, this highly anticipated Ethiopian coffee fulfills all of our fruit tart fantasies. Tart, juicy blackberry and cranberry sit atop the most fragrant orange blossom buttery crust. Rounded out with salted caramel ribbons and a minty finish, this one is for the books.