Crown Jewel Burundi Ngozi Turihamwe Turashobora Raised Bed Washed CJ1564 – Lot 1441 – 33720-1 – SPOT RCWHSE

Price $172.04 per box

Box Weight 22 lbs

Position Spot

Boxes 41

Warehouses Oakland

Flavor Profile Cinnamon, ginger tea, lime, apricot, and rosemary

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Overview 

This is a traditional washed coffee from Ngozi, Burundi produced by the independently organized and women-led Turihamwe Turashobora farmer group and washing station, in association with JNP Coffee. 

The flavor profile is citrusy with a gentle sweetness and unique spice flavors of cinnamon and ginger tea. We noted lime, apricot and rosemary with frequency. 

Our roasters recommend a gentle approach during the Maillard reactions and giving this coffee a nice, soft landing. 

When brewed our baristas found the cups sweetest and most enjoyable when coarsely ground on a flatbed pour-over brewer, and it showcased lots of interesting floral and spice notes as an espresso. 

Taste Analysis by Chris Kornman 

This refined little jewel from Ngozi’s preeminent women-led producer group has an unmistakably evocative sense of its source, from the hands that pick the fruit and process it to the hills, iconic of the region in which it is grown. It reminds me a lot of my first experiences in the country, clustered around tables full of coffees echoing the favored “chocolate” and “orange” and “tea-like” notes, searching for one or two in each set that might warrant the pedestal in an international quality competition. I told Jeanine not long ago that this lot rivaled those top lots, in part because of how precisely representative it is of the flavors I’ve come to associate specifically with the province of Ngozi. 

What’s immediately apparent at first sip, and often in the fragrance before, is the citrus presence. Many of our tasters gravitated towards the idea of a fresh lime or navel orange. When pulled as espresso, interestingly the coffee’s citrusy side took a floral turn, evoking the gentle sweet scent of orange blossoms. 

The cup evokes gentler tones, as well. Fragile fruited notes of apricot and cantaloupe and whispers of cranberry pair delicately with the browned sweetness of caramel and baking spice (we noted cinnamon, chili, coriander, pumpkin spice, and ginger tea). There’s a fresh and refreshing character to the finish as well, almost herbal in the way it pairs with the citrus flavors, like freshly plucked flowering rosemary. 

Underneath all this latent complexity is a simple truth: the cup is hard to put down. With all the stories that could (and have) been told of its source, its processes, and its flavors, the final sentence is almost always this: it’s a damn fine coffee. 

Source Analysis by Chris Kornman & Charlie Habegger  

Turihamwe is a name that should prick up your ears if you’re familiar with JNP Coffee and its founder Jeanine Niyonzima-Aroian.  

The story starts with a spark, first held by Jeanine, who was born in Burundi’s capital city of Bujumbura to a family with a coffee-growing legacy. Her path back to her birth country, after earning an MBA from Northwestern University’s prestigious Kellogg School and enjoying a successful career in international business, would be through a not-for-profit organization she founded called Burundi Friends International (BFI), a not-for-profit funding educational and economic empowerment programs for rural Burundians, which is now in its 13th year. From the board of BFI and after attending a Cup of Excellence competition, Jeanine realized she could be a part of coffee promotion, JNP Coffee was born, and the spark became a flame.  

 One of JNP’s core principles, the ember at the center of its fire, is that of gender-sensitive sourcing and women’s empowerment, and among the company’s earliest strategic partners was the International Women’s Coffee Alliance (IWCA), of which JNP is a founding member in the country.  

 And so the flame spread. Turihamwe is the next chapter in the story is the legacy of Jeanine, JNP, and IWCA. In full, this group of producers represents themselves as Turihamwe Turashobora in Kirundi, which translates to “Together We Can!’’ After a gestation period as members of the IWCA Burundi chapter, this farmer-and-women-led-organization pooled the premiums earned through IWCA and JNP’s “Dushime” payment program and built their own wet mill in 2018 to maintain quality and better capture and represent the value of the coffee grown in their community.  

JNP Coffee’s partnership with Turihamwe is deep, from the personal ties (Jeanine’s mother was born to a coffee farming family in the same province), to shared principles of gender equity, quality, and transparency. In a bold move, JNP not only supports the farmers of the group through the Dushime payment program, but also commits to purchase the full harvest and carry financial risk for the facility’s entire outturn and has done so since its inception.  

The wet mill and quality team is entirely women-led and works closely with JNP’s trained Q Graders on best quality practices and lot curation. In addition to an efficient water treatment system for the processing station, JNP Coffee is also looking to invest in Rainforest Alliance certification (RFA) for this group.  

Fully washed processing for members of the Turihamwe Turashobora group is as detailed as anywhere in Burundi where the best coffees are produced. Cherry is floated for density and visible defects prior to mechanical depulping and demucilaginating. Thanks to the mechanical mucilage removal fermentation is quick, lasting only overnight, after which the wet parchment is sorted by density under water in concrete tanks, and then soaked again once complete. Drying takes place at first under shade, and then in the open air with the parchment piled into pyramids, which are flattened and re-shaped each day as a form of incremental air exposure to slowly and evenly dry the coffee and lock in the final moisture. The resulting profile is exceedingly clean, bright and delicate. 

Green Analysis by Isabella Vitaliano  

JNP, a partner The Crown team is thrilled to work with again and again, has brought us this delicious, washed coffee from the Ngozi Province. 

Density is in the little above-average range with a slightly wider screen-sized spread. One might expect a fast and hot roast would serve this coffee best. Moisture content (10.8%) and water activity (.557 @ 21.28) in the average ranges which shows great quality control by the watchful eye of the women-led wet mill and QC team. Surprisingly, we found that treating this coffee a little bit more gently compared to other East African coffees serves it the best.  

Diedrich IR5 Analysis by Doris Garrido 

It is a pleasure to once again enjoy a coffee from a project I admire and respect, such as JNP Coffee from Burundi. I had the opportunity to meet Jeanine last year. Initially, I saw her at an expo, but she was too busy for me to interrupt. Later, she visited The Crown and spent some time in our crazy city of Oakland, here in California. Now, I’ve roasted one of her coffees again, this time a washed processed coffee. 

I focused on working with the airflow on this coffee throughout the roast, starting by adding it to 50% at the dropping of the coffee and then increasing it to 100% at the temperature of 368°F to the end of the roast. In theory, it was a great decision; in reality, this coffee loves air and needs a bit more. How do I know this? Because I just tasted an Ikawa roast that was beautifully delicious. It wasn’t just the air that was good, but also a slower roast. I did a high-heat roast with a short yellowing phase, but the results were better with slower approaches I noticed. 

 My charge temperature started at 445°F with 100% gas for 30 seconds, and I maintained it for 4 minutes until it reached 317°F, then reduced it to 30%. 

The few changes I made to the gas and airflow resulted in 4 minutes of drying, 2:40 minutes of yellowing, and it was topped off with 1 minute and 26 seconds of development, ending the roast with a final temperature of 399°F. 

I have come to accept that Isabella’s Ikawa roast, and Chris’s Bullet roast do justice to this coffee better, with an amazingly delicious, silky body, full of dry fruits and complex sweetness. Despite my fast roast, I was able to taste a complex citrus acidity, with notes of mango, orange, peppermint, dry fruits, dry spices, fresh herbs, peppercorn, raisin, candy, and guava. A very decent roast that turned on a warmth cup of coffee, but I encourage you to refer to Chris’s Bullet analysis; he nailed it much better and check the Ikawa Low-density profile, with all this data for sure any roaster can bring the best of this beautiful coffee.  

Aillio Bullet R1 IBTS Analysis by Chris Kornman 

I’m making another guest appearance here on the Bullet, and I’ll be using my “500g Quick Roast” as a starting point, which employs a high charge temperature (482F IBTS), a constant D4 drum speed (about 60RPM), and a general trend throughout the roast of decreasing power and increasing fan speed gradually with a target of about an 8 minute roast and roughly 90 seconds of post crack development. You can check out this profile on roast.world here. 

I roasted four or five coffees in quick succession before throwing this washed Burundi into the roaster, making sure the roaster was plenty warmed up and that I was feeling comfortable at the controls. I had a very specific goal with this roast, which was to counterpoint Doris’ quick and hot style with a gentler approach, stretching Maillard and roasting fairly light with a slow ROR descent from the first crack into the finish. 

While I had to jiggle the controls on power and fan a little more than I prefer, I did end up with roughly equal parts of the roast in drying and Maillard stages, with a 100-second post crack development and a total roast time of 9:12, a full minute longer than Doris’ roast, spent almost entirely between color change and first crack. 

This approach did not disappoint. It cupped sweet and gentle and consistent, with delicate flavors of peach tea and orange blossom, complemented by a nectar-like sweetness. 

I highly recommend taking a gentle approach during the Maillard reactions and giving this coffee a nice, soft landing for the best results. 

Ikawa Pro V3 Analysis by Isabella Vitaliano 

Our current Ikawa practice compares two sample roast profiles, originally designed for different densities of green coffee. The two roasts differ slightly in total length, charge temperature, and time spent between color change in first crack. You can learn more about the profiles here. 

This Burundi will delight and surprise not only in the cup but in the roaster as well. To make great coffee, we have rough outlines and guides, and sometimes we have coffees that break those walls we have created.  

 The light density profile was creamy and sweet with light flavors like honeycomb, peach, and raspberry. Paired with an herbal essence of thyme it has an interesting balance and quite complexity to the cup. 

On the high-density profile, the team got notes of darker berries like acai, and blackberry along with pear and cranberry. A soft tea like flavor with lots of light fruit notes to round it out. While this cup was delicious as well, there was a lack of cohesiveness in the cup that was present in the first roast. 

In your typical East African coffee, one would expect to push the heat and that a high-density profile, like the one we have created, would suit this coffee better. It’s fun when a coffee breaks away from these molds and expectations around roasting. It means there is always more to learn.  

I highly recommend utilizing the light-density roast to get the best results from this Burundi lot. Happy cupping and let yourself be surprised by this JNP exclusive! 

You can roast your own by linking to our profiles in the Ikawa Pro app here: 

Roast 1: Low Density Sample Roast 

Roast 2: High Density Sample Roast   

Brew Analysis by Katie Briggs 

Another exciting Burundi coffee here at Royal! I had the pleasure of doing an analysis on a Burundi natural coffee last week, so it will be fun to compare this week’s washed Burundi coffee. From the women-owned and operated JNP coffee, founder Jeanine produces excellent and clean coffees while also working hard to advocate for women’s empowerment in coffee and continuing her family’s coffee-growing legacy in Burundi. It is truly inspiring as a woman in coffee myself and I am so proud to have the pleasure of tasting her coffee! 

I started off my brews with a finer grind to feel out how the extraction would be. I did a 19g dose, at a grind of 9 on the Kalita Wave flatbed brewer. Started a bloom with a 50g pulse of water for 40 seconds. Then I took it up to 200g, and the final dose of water took it up to 300g. I wasn’t too impressed with this brew, the TDS was very high at 1.77. There were some citrus notes in this brew, but with a bit of bitterness like the peel of an orange instead of the sweet fruit. We also got notes of raw cashew, cranberry, and apricot.  

I wanted to sweeten this next brew up quite a bit, so I just coarsened the grind to a 10 and repeated my brew method. I liked this brew a little bit better. The TDS was in a better place at 1.43. There were still some nice notes of citrus and stone fruit, still had a bit of bitterness with notes of walnut and chestnut. I thought it was okay but could be better! 

I again just coarsened the grind, this time to 11 and repeated my brew method. This brew was delicious and exactly what I wanted out of this coffee! We got notes of mandarina and apricot, with a caramel sweetness and whispers of a tropical hibiscus. 

This coffee was so fun to play around with, but I do recommend going coarser with your grind on a flatbed brewer to really bring out the sweet citrus notes! Whatever you decide to do, this coffee will yield some quality brews and keep you on your toes with fun notes in every brew! 

Espresso Analysis by MJ Smith 

Any time that I see a coffee associated with Jeanine and JNP Coffee, I know that I’m in for a treat! This coffee did not disappoint! Packed full of interesting florals, fruits, sweets, and savories, it truly took me on a journey all around the flavor wheel! As with most Crown Jewels coming down the line, there were several shots that I really loved, but alas I must limit it down to two for this analysis, so these were my favorites… 

The first recipe has a dose of 18.5g, a yield of 38g, and a time of 31 seconds. There was so much to unpack with this one. Initially, I picked up notes of florals and spices, like jasmine, nasturtium, and paprika, and then the honey-like sweetness came through, finished with notes of strawberry and clove. I shared some with the rest of the barista team, who contributed additional notes of pomegranate, apricot, rosemary, sesame, almond, marmalade, starfruit, coriander, vanilla, and limoncello. Like I said before, a full trip around the flavor wheel! 

This next shot had a dose of 19g, a yield of 37.5, and a slightly longer time of 36 seconds. My first thought when I sipped this one was of autumn and winter. I got pumpkin spice, cranberry, pie crust, salted caramel, baked apple, and allspice, with a slight breeze of orange blossom and lemon zest, finished off with a nibble of dark chocolate on the end. Truly, truly delicious! 

All in all, this was a wonderful coffee on espresso! I found that my favorite shots had a medium dose, medium yield, and medium-high pull time, but I encourage you to experiment with them and see for yourself! I hope you love it as much as I do! Thanks for another wonderful coffee, Jeanine, and company! Can’t wait to see where it ends up on the bar here at The Crown!