Crown Jewel Brazil Farmgate Castelo Eliezer Calvi Honey Catucai – 33106-1 – SPOT RCWHSE

Price $167.49 per box

Box Weight 22 lbs

Position Spot

Boxes 19

Warehouses Oakland

Flavor Profile Lemon tea, Snicker’s bar, dark chocolate, and sweet herbs

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Overview 

 This is a honey-processed coffee from Espírito Santo, Brazil, produced by Eliezer Calvi with farmgate pricing transparency.

The flavor profile is intriguing, with notes like lemon tea, Snicker’s bar, dark chocolate, and sweet herbs. 

Our roasters found that applying a soft and gradual heat and allowing for a slow roasting process works best.  

When brewed, we recommend using a flatbed brewer and a finer grind.  

Taste Analysis by Chris Kornman 

Would a honey by any other name taste as sweet? Brazil can be legitimately credited with inventing this genre, but have long called the style of processing cereja descascado (literally, peeled cherry), usually rendered as ‘pulped natural’ in English. Neither sound quite as tasty, though. 

I note the processing because one of my initial and ongoing notes when tasting this coffee is cascara – the peel and partial pulp of the coffee fruit that’s been removed during processing. Maybe it’s the flavor equivalent of a phantom limb. 

It’s a fascinating coffee in a lot of other ways, as well. I’m particularly excited about featuring Brazilian coffees like this (and the others we’ve released earlier this year) because the country is so often undervalued in ultra-competitive super-specialty lineups (like Crown Jewels) for instance.  

What I like about it is that it’s interesting; it keeps my attention. There’s a very Brazilian-type flavor background, somewhere deep in there that I keep catching glimpses of – Snicker’s bar, praline, and dark chocolate for example, maybe even a strong breakfast tea. But there’s so much more, many folks quickly note captivating herbal characteristics – we’ve mentioned tarragon, fennel, marjoram, and even juniper in various contexts. 

And then, layered on top of all that, there is a refined and very identifiable acidity. It’s the characteristic that stands out more than almost any other and screams “this is not a normal Brazil!” We thought primarily of fruits like pineapple, dried apricot, maybe some dried mango. And then the citrus, specifically lemon but not exactly lemon, maybe it’s lemonade… or lemon verbena or maybe lemon tea… or an Arnold Palmer? I think that’s it, yes. Take this coffee golfing with you, or whatever. 

Anyway, it’s a cute coffee, one we’re excited about for any number of reasons: traceability and transparency, unique location in a country thought of as “generic,” and of course, a superb twist on the now-classic style of processing that lends uncommon special-ness to the flavor of the cup.  

Source Analysis by Charlie Habegger 

Eliezer Jose Calvi is a small farmer in the mountainous municipality of Castelo, in south central Espírito Santo state. His coffee is a rare mixture of small scale and high quality, hand-picked by family members and dried on raised beds. This type of production more closely mimics the steep family farms of Colombia than the vast, mechanized estates that dominate Brazil’s popular coffee imagery. This particular lot is far brighter in balance than almost anyone expects for a pulped natural Brazil, of any type or quality: flavors range from passion fruit to apple candy and red grapes, with the mineral florality of oolong tea. If it weren’t for the delicate sweetness and soft body, it would be almost impossible to tell it was a Brazil at all.  

Espirito Santo and its Small Farmers  

Espírito Santo is a relatively small, coastal state in southeastern Brazil, nudged in between the mighty Minas Gerais, Bahia, and Rio de Janeiro states. Coffee-wise it is a state of high contrast. Espírito Santo produces the majority of Brazil’s “conilon” robustas and is still mostly known for this output. But the state also has some impressively mountainous areas inland whose farmers, at 800+ meters in such southern latitudes, have more in common with Colombia or Peru specialty growers than most of Brazil. The southern inland mountains of Espirito Santo range from arid to dense, humid and cold. The area is home to numerous small coffee farmers including some prominent cooperatives and organic estates. Coffee ranges from accessible to remote, but the quality of this region is also renowned in Brazil–lots of mountain towns in Espírito Santo draw Brazilians from coastal cities to the fresh air, eco lodges, waterfalls, European restaurants, and local coffee.    

While it’s true that 500+ hectare estates dominate Brazil’s production, still about half of the country’s coffee farmers have small, family-managed operations, processing at home and selling to local growers’ organizations to earn their living. Smaller farms tend to be clustered in the more difficult landscapes for coffee efficiency—the ones that are steep and forested, difficult to access, or at higher elevations where the climate is more challenging for coffee to thrive. The Castelo municipality is one such area.  

Eliezer Jose Calvi  

Eliezer is in his 8th year producing specialty coffee. He connected with the exporter of his coffee, FAF Coffees, in 2016, and through a local outreach program they were offering, called “Lado a Lado”, began learning how to renovate his land and harvesting techniques right away. Today he produces exclusively pulped natural coffee, depulping the cherry and moving immediately to dry on raised beds that are covered to protect the coffee from the region’s humidity.   

The family farm, Sítio Vista Linda, is 10 hectares in size and has both catuai and catucai cultivars planted. Harvest is entirely family-run with the help of 1-2 local laborers. Harvest here is very slow, lasting many months, which increases harvest costs and makes coffee drying and storage more difficult due to the changing climate (going from winter to summer in Brazil).  

FAF Coffees and the “Other” Brazil  

FAF Coffees is a specialty exporter in Brazil founded by the Croce family. During their years spent struggling to revive the soils of their own family farm in the Mogiana region, the Croce family connected with like-minded small growers also struggling to make farming viable for the next generation. Over time, the Croce family estate, “Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza” (Environmental Fortress Farm), started sharing their approach to land management, and exporting other producers’ coffees to buyers they had come to know. 

Farmers working with FAF have a strong focus on their immediate ecosystems—the watersheds and canopies that made the land worth living on—as well as quality in the cup, as a means to economic independence and self-esteem. Over the years the Croce family’s network of farmers grew. FAF now exports coffee on behalf of more than 250 small and sustainable farms throughout the Mogiana, Sul de Minas, and Espírito Santo regions. In all places they have mobilized entrepreneurial small growers dedicated to the same combination of cup quality, environmental health, and community strength, exuberantly referred to in the FAF network as “total quality”. 

We have full farmgate pricing transparency on this lot – after conversion from local currency and parchment weights, the farmer received the equivalent of $2.50 per pound.  

Green Analysis by Isabella Vitaliano  

When it comes to Brazilian coffee, the availability of cheap, low-quality, high-volume lots is common knowledge in the industry. However, there are producers that are working to break these molds and display the highly diverse landscape, microclimate, and quality that can come out of the region. 

Representing this small group, FAF has collaborated with Royal to bring this lot to you all. Green specs are clean across the metrics, with the screen size leaning towards the 19-16 range, and the below-average density anticipates needing a gentler touch with this coffee in the roaster.  

Brazil, responsible for 40% of the worlds crop, has necessarily made massive investments in coffee breeding programs. This Catucai is a cross between Mundo Novo and Caturra developed by the Institution Agronomico. Mundo Novo is highly productive while Caturra is a more compact tree, so the hybrid allows plants to be densely populated on estates. This short-stature hybrid also makes it easy to apply pest and disease treatments. Happy roasting!  

Diedrich IR-5 Analysis by Doris Garrido 

When roasting Brazilian coffee beans, it is essential to apply a soft and gradual heat, allowing for a slow roasting process. This approach is well-known, yet it remains a critical reminder due to the beans’ density, which hovers around the lower end of the average spectrum. Patience in the roasting process is rewarded with a richer complexity in the coffee’s flavor profile. I wrote this to myself, patience is not my gift, and I must think of it when I encounter coffees like this one.  

During the initial phase of my roast, I aimed for a five-minute drying period, which I successfully achieved. My intention was to extend the yellowing phase to at least four minutes; however, I managed a duration of 3:43. While this is satisfactory, I believe that a slightly longer duration could enhance the sweetness and complexity of the roast. According to my observations, the sugars caramelized effectively, suggesting that there is potential for even greater sweetness in the coffee. 

I charged the beans to the roaster at 397°F, a relatively low temperature, with the airflow set to 50% of the machine’s capacity. I maintained this airflow throughout the roast, increasing it as the temperature approached 360°F. The heat application was covered for over five minutes, beginning just before the turning point and continuing through the color change. I started with a low gas setting, incrementally increasing it to a maximum of 80%, then gradually reducing it in a similar manner. My goal was to sustain sufficient thermal energy to reach the first crack, targeting a rate of rise (RoR) of approximately 13 degrees per minute. A soft-sounding crack is usually what you get with this pace, and it works for me to take some beans to make sure they have a puffy appearance, which signifies the onset of the first crack. 

For the development phase, I monitored the temperature to ensure it remained below 400°F. Although I ultimately recorded a drop at exactly 400°F, I attribute a slight toasty undertone in the coffee to this temperature, even though it was barely perceptible. It is important to note that the final temperature is not the sole factor; the way each phase is managed also plays a significant role in preserving the fruity notes and enhancing the desired sweetness. 

In conclusion, the resulting roast was vibrant, characterized by citrusy grapefruit, sweet oranges, dried dates, nutty undertones, and dark chocolate. A hint of toastiness was detected, contributing to a full-bodied coffee. The cup was smooth, with a pronounced sweetness reminiscent of caramelized sugar.

Aillio Bullet R1 IBTS Analysis by Evan Gilman  

 Unless otherwise noted, we use both the roast.world site and Artisan software to document our roasts on the Bullet. You can find our roast documentation below, by searching on roast.world, or by clicking on the Artisan links below.  

Generally, we have good results starting our 500g roasts with 428F preheating, P6 power, F2 fan, and d6 drum speed. Take a look at our roast profiles below, as they are constantly changing! 

I tend to roast Brazilian coffees gently due to their reputation of being lower grown and lower density. For this coffee, I tried a more even-handed approach in the Bullet, starting with a middling charge temperature of 446F, P9 power, and F2 fan from the start. The idea for me was to get a solid amount of time in Maillard to really bring out the brown sugary goodness and creamy texture I enjoy in Brazilian coffee.  

The aggressive heat application that you see at the start of roast was tempered to P8 just after turning point, and lowered further to P7 well before yellowing began. This allowed me to keep my peak rate of change below 35F/minute, which for me tends to be an inflection point on how acids are expressed in a coffee. Faster development through green gives me more expression of acidity, but that’s not what I was looking for in this roast. You know me, I want those cakey sugars! 

This roast turned out just how I planned. The cup was very mellow with some cherry-like fruitiness, but there was some very delicate savoriness here that I wasn’t expecting. My palate was left with black sesame, orange tea, and palm sugar sweetness. Not a touch of the nuttiness I’d expect from a standard Brazil, and an eminently chuggable cup. 

I’d really suggest this coffee for any preparation method. Brazil tends to get pigeonholed into espresso, but this coffee would honestly do amazingly well as an espresso, so don’t rule it out. Of course, the filter drops we made were phenomenal as well. Just chug, it’s the only thing to do! 

You can follow along with my roast here at roast.world: https://roast.world/egilman/roasts/rdXM7AOCMXmCEDOkA_s3C 

Ikawa Pro V3 Analysis by Isabella Vitaliano  

Our current Ikawa practice compares two sample roast profiles, originally designed for different densities of green coffee. The two roasts differ slightly in total length, charge temperature, and time spent between color change in first crack. You can learn more about the profiles here. 

From cascara to elderberry, green mango, and Arnold Palmer this Brazilian microlot has a range paired with excellence.

On the low-density roast, we got flavors like black tea, grapefruit, honey, lemon tea, and thyme. As delicious as this was, it leaned a bit thin for my typical taste.  

The flavor profile on the high-density roast was complex and interesting with notes of plum, praline, and ripe berries. The acids are presented in a really enjoyable way from the roast, a hard turn from the typical expectations from a Brazilian coffee.  

With a low average density, one might expect this coffee would prefer the low and slow roast profile. We are here to break molds and this lot not only does it in flavor, but in roast style as well! Happy cupping. 

You can roast your own by linking to our profiles in the Ikawa Pro app here: 

Roast 1: Low Density Sample Roast 

Roast 2: High Density Sample Roast 

Brew Analysis by Taylor Brandon 

This honey processed coffee impressed me with its round soft body and spiced tropical fruit notes. There is a beautiful and bright citrus present that can be a little abrasive if the grind is too coarse. For best results, stick with a flatbed brewer and a finer grind to extract the best this Brazil red catuai has to offer. Our first brew was a bit of a wildcard; an 8.5 grind and 19-gram dose on the Kalita Wave yielded a TDS of 1.43. Upon the first sip, I was excited about how smooth and round the body was and I was instantly greeted by tropical fruit flavors in the cup. My team noted black tea, pineapple, white peach, and lemongrass. Looking back, I was a big fan of this brew but I wanted to see if a coarser grind would increase the depth of flavor. My next brew did just that, increasing the grind to 10. The citrus came out to play and this was also when the team began to note strong essences of tajin covered mango. The tajin covered mango was at the party accompanied by lime and tarragon. I found enjoyment in this brew but it was a tad bitter so I dosed down to 18 grams of coffee for my next brew. My TDS went from 1.52 to 1.42 and produced notes of lime, orange, cinnamon and fig. We were not beating the turnt up citrus allegations here and I knew dialing the citrus would need to take place with the grind. In my last brew I tightened my grind to 9 and kept all other factors the same. I got a TDS of 1.38 and notes of Arnold Palmer, apple cinnamon, fig and lime in the cup. Bottom line, it’s a great coffee that has a magnificent body. This would fare great as a limited time pour over option on any cafe’s menu.

Espresso Analysis by Asha Wells 

After pulling just a few shots of this coffee, what became increasingly clear to me was the spectrum of herbal intrigue. This varied impressively and drew me a throughline to contemplate during this analysis.  

As a lover of natural coffees this Brazil really checked all my boxes, super juicy, deeply fragrant, and complex. Some notes present throughout the analysis were blood orange, vanilla, lemon, and a pleasant smokiness that reminded me of the charred-oak barrels used for aging bourbon. 

For my first recipe, I began with a moderate dose of 18 grams and pulled a yield of 36g which took 37 seconds. My first impression on tasting, I was struck by the bold, yet sophisticated balance between the punchy notes like; blood orange, mezcal and tart cherry juxtaposed with notes more delicate in nature; vanilla bean, cardamom, and marshmallow.  

On my second go-round, I used a lesser dose of 17g with a finer grind and again pulled a yield of 36g which took 37 seconds. On tasting this shot, I was quite taken with the pleasant, cola-like herbal notes I was getting. While this recipe had less juicy audacity, it was not lacking in personality, and I found myself swimming in a delicate citrusy sweetness and lingering perfume.  

This coffee would be a swell addition to any espresso bar, these recipes pulled consistently, and as expected. Very user-friendly, even outside of the recipes I’ve chosen to highlight above, there was something to like in every shot that I tasted!