Introduction by Chris Kornman
Yet another impressive coffee from our partner Luis Pedro Zelaya in Antigua. Sr. Zelaya is a force to be reckoned with in Antigua coffees. He’s a fourth-generation coffee professional whose reputation, in part, results from his remarkably clean and efficient beneficio that produces world-class coffees. Among the many impressive features of the mill are the sizable maceration tanks and guardiolas.
However, this lot was not mechanically dried but rather sent to the greenhouse, where Luis Pedro has stacked raised beds three tiers high and maintains a strict rotation schedule to ensure even drying. While not all of the coffees processed at Beneficio Bella Vista are grown on his farms, this particular coffee is exactly that. The Bourbon and Caturra blend comes from a farm called Hacienda Bella Carmona, located within the traditional Antigua growing region.
Located a mere 90 minute drive from Guatemala’s capital city, Antigua was once itself the capital of the Spanish colonial Kingdom of Guatemala which included nearly all of Central America, stretching from Chiapas, Mexico south to Costa Rica. World renowned as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the city contains a remarkable concentration of beautiful architecture connected by cobblestone streets. Coffee from the highlands surrounding the city has a protected designation of origin and benefits from the volcanic soil in the region; Guatemala is home to numerous dormant, extinct, and active volcanoes. Antigua rests in the shadows of Volcán de Fuego, from which smoke can be seen rising on a daily basis.
Green Analysis by Chris Kornman
This Antigua coffee sports a high density, good looking European prep screen size, and a water activity that’s a little above normal compared to its moisture content. Expect it to respond well to the Maillard reaction and sugar browning while roasting.
The lot is comprised of exclusively Bourbon and Caturra cultivars. Bourbon is one of Arabica’s two commonly grown heirloom varieties and it traces its history back to the island that was once its namesake, now a French department known as Réunion. While still fairly common, it has been outpaced en masse with higher-yielding, more disease resistant trees… like Caturra. After Bourbon seeds crossed the ocean to the New World, the Arabica heirloom plant began to take on new characteristics, and a mutation eventually called Caturra was first observed in Brazil, noted for its short stature and resistance to wind and rain.
Roast Analysis by Jen Apodaca
High moisture content and a high water activity with a high density reading, means that this coffee is going to shed a lot of water and hold a lot of heat through the roast. My first roast, as always, was fast and I noticed that first crack was loud and happened early on my machine. In the cooling tray the coffee was extremely light and I was worried that it was underdeveloped. The colortrack readings were extremely light as well, but on the table the coffee was very sweet with ample sugar development and the citrus was lightly present.
On the second roast, I may have overcompensated and roasted the coffee longer and to a higher temperature, believing that I had underdeveloped roast one. On the cupping table, the roastiness was detected and produced some bitter floral notes, but also a chocolate fudge and grape flavor. If I could roast this coffee again, I would slow the rate of change after first crack and lengthen the roast, but keep a low end temperature for more caramel and orange notes.
Roast one: Applesauce, caramel, citrus, peanut butter cookie
Roast two: Almond, fudge, grape, juniper
Behmor Analysis by Evan Gilman
Unless otherwise noted, I follow a set standard of operations for all my Behmor roasts. Generally, I’ll use the 1lb setting, manual mode (P5), full power, and high drum speed until crack. Read my original post and stats here.
This coffee was a tough nut to crack. Well I guess it’s not really a nut, but you get my point. Using full power and leaving it on throughout the roast will certainly help you crack this sweet Guatemalan coffee from Luis Pedro Zelaya Zamora. Honestly, I wasn’t satisfied with my roast of this coffee, but it ended up being quite tasty on the cupping table regardless.
In fact, I recommend not ramping down the heat at the end of the roast like I did here. I’m pretty sure this was my longest roast yet, and I definitely needed to keep an eye on the Behmor in order to avoid the dreaded Error 7 indicating an unattended machine.
You can see that I experienced 13.7% roast loss percentage, but most of this was due to water weight. In fact, looking at the roast, you wouldn’t know it since a number that high usually correlates with a dark roast (at least on the Behmor). As you can see, my ColorTrack number was actually lighter than usual, anticipated, or desired. All that being said, this coffee was still very tasty on the cupping table!
Some lots are just mystifying.. But I’m willing to get over it when they’re mystifyingly delicious.
Brew Analysis by Evan Gilman
For this set of brew analysis I decided to brew all three roasts of the Guatemala Antigua Luis Pedro Zelaya Zamora Parabolic Dried Crown Jewel. Each one tasted radically different from the next, so you’re in for a treat with this coffee if you’re interested in exploring the way roast can change your coffee’s flavor profile. Each roast was brewed identically using the Chemex, and there were notable differences in the results.
As you can see, Roast 2 ended up pouring through much more quickly than the other two. Could this have something to do with roast level?
Roast one was quite pleasant to drink, and very mellow. This is the sort of cup that would complement a dessert quite nicely. We found apple, plum, and plenty of caramel-covered chocolate turtle notes in this brew.
The outlier was the Behmor roast, which was brightly acidic and boasted less toast than tart green apple and green grape. In complete counterpoint, this was a zinger of a cup. Bright and tart, it really showed what dimension could be pulled from this coffee.
This coffee may be available in full size bags as well. Contact Us to find out more.