Introduction by Chris Kornman
CJ1010 – Kenya Nyeri Gatomboya Fully Washed Crown Jewel comes to us from the infamous Nyeri district, near the base of Mount Kenya, north of Nairobi near the center of the country. Only Kilimanjaro tops the maximum elevation of Mount Kenya in all of Africa.
Nyeri’s coffees are highly coveted for their exceptional quality, so much so that a recent governor attempted to seize all control of the district’s exports. After an unfortunate season where excellent coffee sat in warehouses, abandoned for political posturing, coffee is once again flowing from the district.
This lot was processed at the Gatomboya Factory (the Kenyan term for what is called a washing station, wet mill, or beneficio elsewhere in the world), after harvest on the small family plots of some 600 members of the Barichu Cooperative Society. The typical farmer here counts their trees rather than the size of their land; most average just 250 coffee plants per farm and as a group produce just a single 40,000 pound container of finished green coffee per season. Gatomboya is a word taken from the local Kikuyu dialect meaning “swamp,” indicating the presence of a water source nearby – indeed, the coffee was fermented and washed in water from the Gatomboya river.
Green Analysis by Chris Kornman
Good stuff here: this is a delightfully dense, precisely graded Kenya. Over 97% of this coffee falls between just two screen sizes, which should respond nicely to gas adjustments and quicker roasting styles. SL-28 and SL-34 are two of the most highly regarded varieties produced by Scot Laboratories in Kenya. They are both Bourbon derivative cultivars, though from different lineages: SL-28 was developed from a drought-resistant variety originally cultivated in Tanganyika, a territory that makes up part of modern day Tanzania; it’s generally considered to be of the highest quality but is not very productive compared to other commercial Arabica varieties. SL-34 is a Kenyan mutation originally found near Kabete. Both of these SL variants exhibit bronze-tipped leaves on the newest growth. Ruiru-11 is a newer cultivar, originating in the mid-1980’s, the result of attempting to make an SL-28 more productive and disease resistant by crossbreeding with varieties as disparate as Sudan Rume (for quality) and Catimor (for disease resistance), among others.
Roast Analysis by Chris Kornman
As indicated above, this coffee responded well to a quicker roast. After stalling out a little on my first attempt, (PR-0262, gray below), I used a higher charge temp and gas position and ended up with a low-maintenance roast that produced a very bright but sweet and full cup (PR-0263, red below). Given the high density and high acidity of this coffee, don’t be afraid to open up the throttle a little while roasting, Kenya Nyeri Gatomboya Fully Washed Crown Jewel can definitely handle an aggressive approach.
Brew Analysis by Chris Kornman
I made a pretty fragrant, very nice tasting Kalita wave brew of PR-0263 recently. Loads of citrus notes including Meyer lemon and pink grapefruit leaped out, and finished with a the richness of dark chocolate and a lingering sweet-savory tomato flavor characteristic of some of the nicest Kenyan coffees. The aromatic brew filled the office, and might have been the most enjoyable part of the experience – mixing the sweet smells of caramelized sugars with grilled lemon peel and rose petals. You’ll love brewing this coffee.
This coffee is available in full size bags as well. Contact Us to find out more.