GREEN


This is a very fragrant green coffee with a very small average screen size and medium density. As with most Ethiopian coffees, it’s dry with a low water activity.

TASTE

ROAST

I took two dramatically different approaches in the roaster. My first roast (PR-0264, gray) used incremental increases throughout the roast and kept the coffee moving into first crack, which I noticed was very quiet. My first crack times below are approximate as a result… it was difficult to pinpoint exactly when the transition from Maillard to crack began. I dropped PR-0264 after around 2 minutes of post-crack development; the coffee cupped quite well – very clean with lots of bright fruitiness, no funk or booziness at all. I’m not always a huge fan of the cherry dried coffees, but this one really impressed me with its ability to showcase floral and clean Yirgacheffe character.

My second roast (PR-0265, red) was intentionally developed much longer and a bit darker to try as espresso. It cupped (unsurprisingly) poorly by comparison to the quicker, lighter roast. However, as a single origin espresso the coffee showcased sweet, complex fruits with a velvety body. During both roasts I found a small boost to the heat during or after first crack helped to prevent baking.

BREW


As espresso, this coffee is not for the faint of heart, but is a pleasure to work with. While dialing this coffee in, I needed to use a relatively coarse grind in order to get appropriately timed shots. With very dense coffees like this and other Ethiopian selections, you can expect to move the grind collar a few notches at the very least. I was rewarded with a bevy of different beverages throughout my dial in procedure. Natural coffees can be a little less consistent, but I was pleased with nearly every shot I tried.

As you can see, I started with a relatively dense shot, which was admittedly a bit salty. It had very curious ethereal notes of gentle lilac, tart hibiscus, and nuanced eucalyptus. My next shot was a bit more dilute, and I encountered more straightforward sweetness in this shot. It wasn’t quite as interesting or challenging, but shots like this are more likely to be crowd-pleasers. There was absolutely nothing wrong with this shot, but it wasn’t my favorite. The parameters I ended up going with were the last shot listed. Plenty of tropical fruit still presented itself at this ratio, but without getting too salty. It turns out that this coffee enjoys longer extractions (time-wise), and just under a 1:2 ratio. To each their own!

Origin Information

Grower
Smallholder farmers organized around the Kokanna coffee mill
Variety
Indigenous heirloom cultivars
Region
Gedeb District, Gedeo Zone, Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples' Region, Ethiopia
Harvest
October – December
Altitude
1,800 – 2,000 meters
Soil
Luvisols
Process
Dried in the cherry on raised beds
Certifications

Background Details

This coffee is sourced from family-owned farms organized around the Kokanna coffee mill located in the Gedeb District, Gedeo Zone, Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples' Region, Ethiopia. The Kokanna mill is located in a beautiful valley in the town of Kakanna, approximately 60 kilometers from the town of Yirgacheffe. Small coffee farmers deliver ripe cherries to the Kokanna mill where the cherries are sorted and immediately placed on raised beds and dried over a period of 15 to 20 days. The raised drying beds are carefully constructed to ensure proper air circulation and temperature control for an optimal drying process.  Cherries are also turned regularly on the beds to prevent damage during the drying process. The cherries are stored in a local warehouse after the moisture is reduced to between 11.5 and 12 percent, and then transported to Addis Ababa where the coffee is milled and exported.