GREEN


Arabica coffee is considered among the least genetically diverse crops on the planet. If there is one part of the globe that bucks this trend, it’s Ethiopia. Rather than one or two common cultivars, Ethiopia has hundreds of commercially grown indigenous varieties, and hundreds more planted as research by government and private research entities. The result is better disease resistance and an abundance of flavor. Bedhatu Jibicho’s coffee is quite typical for the Gedeb region; it’s dense and fairly dry with a small screen size and wide distribution.

TASTE

ROAST

My first roast (PR-0293, gray) used slow and steady increases in gas to achieve a balanced profile with minimal dips in rate of rise after first crack; the roast spent less than 90 seconds post-crack and dropped at a pretty light 56.57 ColorTrack. The roast was a crowd-pleaser on the cupping table, showcasing a lot of bright acids with abundant citrus notes and floral aromas.

The second roast (PR-0294, red) took a more aggressive approach prior to first crack, but I dipped the gas once first crack began. I brushed up against stalling out but recovered and stretched caramelization for almost two minutes, nearly a quarter of the total roast time. The flavors were more rounded, and I really enjoyed the way dense cocoa notes that accompanied more complex, albeit subtler, acidity. I noted some blackberry jam, red grape, and melon in addition to the floral and peach flavors observed by the panel.

I want to point out something else interesting here. PR-0294 landed a full 4 points darker on the ColorTrack scale, a significant margin. But… the weight lost during roasting was hardly different at all, despite common knowledge that would indicate darker roasts weigh much less. What’s actually happened here is that the shorter roast time has created a roast with a wider spread in color, and though it averaged darker it retained a different, more complete array of solubles creating an interesting and complex cup. Not necessarily better or worse, but more complex.

On flexible coffees like this one that taste great at a wide range of roast levels, it might be worth your time to try a faster or slower roast. The ability for a roaster to manipulate a flexible coffee like this one in the machine is remarkable, and worth exploring further.

Origin Information

Grower
Bedhatu Jibicho
Variety
Indigenous heirloom cultivars
Region
Gedeb District, Gedeo Zone, Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples' Region, Ethiopia
Harvest
November - January
Altitude
1,800 – 1,900 meters
Soil
Loamy Red Brown
Process
Fully washed and dried on raised beds
Certifications

Background Details

This coffee is produced by Bedhatu Jibicho and processed as a separate micro-lot at the Banko Gotiti Cooperative where Bedhatu is a member. The Banko Gotiti cooperative is located in the southern district of Gedeb, Ethiopia. The cooperative was established in 2013 and Bedhatu’s farm was selected as a model to help everyone in the cooperative improve their harvesting methods.  Bedhatu was born and raised in Worka.  She started working in coffee in the 1960s when the government gave land to her husband.  Bedhatu’s takes great pride in the fact that she has managed the farm operations for over 50 years, even before her husband passed away in 1991.  As Bedhatu is now over 80 years old, her adult children have started to become more involved in continuing her rich tradition of coffee production.  The family plans to use the premiums from coffee sales to expand production and start an export company.